​Later, as we went in search of cough drops to soothe Valerie's irritated throat, we grinned at kids dressed up for Halloween who were going store-to-store to trick-or-treat (no superhero costumes). Dodging some 20-something vampires, we went into a tiny farmacia (look for the big green cross sign) and showed them a photo of cough drops. Smiling apologetically and shaking her head, the pharmacist waved her arm behind her and said, "Tabaccheria. Not far." A few stores down, the tiny tobacconist's shop (look for the big white "T") disappointed a young witch and a vampire who asked for candy, but they had what we needed.
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Good news: Valerie now has a new favorite cough drop -- an Italian brand. Sold in ITALY.
Bad news: Online in the US they cost $$.
Good news: Valerie has a plan to convince Jay it would make more economic sense to travel back to Italy to buy them.




Even Sicilians love The Dude!

Our hotel, where we had a giant room, with a kitchenette.

Thank you, Pina! Our guide on Mozia told us to look for this "pop-up" museum in a storefront, which had bronze ship prows (for ramming in maritime battles), along with large amphorae for wine, olive oil, etc., all recovered from shipwrecks.

Steve, is that you swimming in this photo? Steve was the active guy on this tour, swimming in Trapani, running to and from the coast from our Valley of the Temples hotel to swim, and running all the way around the island of Ortigia. Valerie was thankful that Jay instead slept in!

Trapani
Our first night in Trapani, the two of us made our way to a restaurant in a less-touristy area. Along with a few Sicilian families eating pizza and pasta, we watched soccer on big-screen TVs. We couldn't understand a word, but it looked exciting. Then we strolled hand-in-hand in the night along the waterfront, thrilled at how the lights of the tram to Erice looked so ethereal in a barely-there fog.
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Trapani's long waterfront promenade was also perfect for Jay and tour member Steve to run several miles the next afternoon. While they burned off some cannoli calories, Valerie (whose seasonal allergies were in full force) and Lesley (Steve's wife) decided naps were the way to go.​​


Jay and Steve, probably discussing running because, you know, runners gotta run!

A "clock" showing the day of the month, and a 12-hour clock.